April 25, 2016

Tutorial, part 6 - Front Pleats

There are many kinds of pleats, and there's conflicting terminology for them, too! 

The style of pleats we've included with our trousers pattern are usually referred to as "knife pleats," "pressed knife pleats," "accordion pleats," or "side pleats." 

However, those style pleats are typically vertical (as opposed to triangular) and the folded edges are often partially sewn together to prevent the pleated fabric from pulling apart. 

The pleats we've included obviously don't fit that description, and we're honestly not sure how to specifically label them (especially since there doesn't seem to be any standardized terminology regarding pleats). 

While the pleats on our pattern actually look more like darts (and could even be sewn closed as darts would, if you want to do that for some reason!), we styled our pleats option after a vintage text on trousers variations from The Modern Tailor, Outfitter, and Clothier, Volume 1 (see our "Recommended Reading" list): 




Press the front pleats into place over a tailor's ham; the folded edges can really face toward or away from center, but we prefer them facing forward.





Repeat for the other side. 


For SIDE POCKETS, continue to the next step

Otherwise, skip to step 8



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