Sew the right and left trousers assemblies together along the center back, right sides facing (leaving the top ⅝" free for the cut-on waistband version), and press the seam allowances open.
For stripes (including herringbones!), every effort should be made to properly match them at the center back seam.
(This basically involves a lot of pinning and basting, but I think you'll agree the final result is worth it!)
If you're making plaid trousers, this involves even MORE pinning and basting!
I (Alex) like to pin along both the horizontal and vertical plaid patterns for the outermost couple inches or so, matching corners as well.
Depending on your fabric and experience, this can take a solid hour to do, but it's better than having trousers with mismatched plaids!
(And if you're really dedicated, you'll baste the seam and double-check for proper alignment before sewing!)
Again, I think you'll agree that the final result is totally worth the extra effort!
If your fabric has an "irregular"/asymmetrical plaid pattern, just do the best you can.
Ideally, the horizontal plaid patterns should match at the center back seam line, regardless.
If you wish to incorporate a back buckle into your trousers, cut four of the back buckle (piece P) on the crossgrain for stripes.
For plaids, determine your desired strap placement and cut the straps so the plaids will match.
Sew two of the straps together along the upper, outer, and lower edges, right sides facing.
Trim the seam allowances to ⅛", and as closely as possible at the corners.
Turn the strap outward.
We've found Dritz' "Quick Turn" (see right) to be invaluable for this process.
A corner/point turner is very helpful, too.
Press the strap flat.
Using tailor's chalk or a disappearing ink fabric pen, lightly mark ⅝" from the open end of the strap.
Turn the centermost edges under ⅝", press, and edge-stitch the strap closed.
Repeat for the other strap.
Position the straps where desired on the back of the trousers.
I like to position mine halfway between the top of trousers and the back pockets, with the outermost edges flush with the darts.
Topstitch the outermost (trapezoidal) portion of the straps to the back.
Pull the straps through the back buckle and attach as you would for a waistcoat/vest.
For a CUT-ON WAISTBAND, continue to the next step.
For a SEW-ON WAISTBAND, skip to step 10.
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