Our side pockets technique is something of an adaptation of Roberto Cabrera's from Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear (see our "Recommended Reading" list), although we've changed a few steps here and there.
Note that the method of installing side pockets is the same for cut-on and sew-on waistbands (and their variations); it's possible to include them with every trousers construction included with our Victorian trousers pattern except for the version with front slant pockets.
(Well, it's actually theoretically possible to make that work, but ... why? That'd be weird.)
Also note that for the smaller sizes (30, 32, and 34), you may need to reduce the width of the pocket pouch by an inch or two to avoid interfering with the front fly.
If you were "period-tailoring" your trousers, you would stabilize/reinforce the pocket opening with stripes of linen/canvas, but we like to just use stay tape; simply cut a length of stay tape slightly taller than the pocket opening and stitch it to the underside of the trousers within the seam allowance (we like to stitch ½" from the trousers side edge, with the stay tape centered over the stitch line).
The stay tape will prevent the pocket opening from stretching and sagging open over time.
NOTE: We ordinarily like to consistently demonstrate garment construction in our tutorials using the right side of the garment, but for side pockets we've found it easier to do so using the left side.
Press under the upper, lower, and one side edge of two side pocket facings (piece W).
Mark the top and bottom of the pocket opening on the trousers front. (We like to make the top of our pocket openings 2 ⅛" from the trousers top - that is, so they'll be 1 ½" below the upper seam line - and the bottom of the pocket opening 6" below that).
Position the side pocket pouch (piece X) underneath the trousers front so the top edges are flush and the side edge of the pocketing is flush with trousers' side at the widest point. (A bit of the pocketing will overhang the front trousers' side edge in the top/waist area.)
Note that, for a trousers front with pleats, the trousers front will not lie flat. That's okay! Just get the sides and top to lie flat and don't worry about the rest for now.
Position one side pocket facing over the pocket opening on the front, right sides together and the unfolded edge of the facing flush with the trousers' side edge.
If you're making plaid trousers, position the facing so the plaid pattern is properly aligned on the trousers and the facing.
Sew the side pocket facing to the trousers front over the pocket opening through all layers (facing, trousers front, AND side pocket); start at one end of the pocket opening and sew from the side edge to the side seam line (⅝" from the side edge), pivot and sew along the seam line (again, ⅝" from the side edge) to the other end of the pocket opening, pivot, and sew back out to the side edge.
That may sound very confusing, but it's quite simple and much easier to explain visually!
TIP: If you want to save yourself a couple minutes or so, rather than stabilizing/reinforcing the pocket opening area with stay tape on the underside (as shown previously on the trousers back), you can do it during this step by simply centering the stay tape over the side seam line and including it in the aforementioned stitch - thus doing it all in one go!
Trim off the excess pocket pouch fabric at the side so all three layers' side edges are flush.
Trim the seam allowance inside the pocket opening down to ¼", and diagonally slash the upper and lower corners of the pocket opening all the way to the stitch line at the corners.
Press the facing toward the side and topstitch the facing to the seam allowance along the pocket opening through all layers (we call this "understitching").
If you're making plaid trousers, the plaid pattern should be properly aligned at the seam line.
Turn the facing to the underside and press.
On the right side, topstitch through all layers along the pocket opening ¼" from the folded edge, reinforcing at the top and bottom.
On the wrong side, pin, then sew the folded edges of the pocket facing to the pocketing, catching only the facing and pocketing layers (not the trousers!).
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This is the point at which our side pocket method begins to deviate significantly from Cabrera's.
It's a bit unorthodox, but hopefully you'll agree that it produces good results! (We were actually inspired by the unusual zipper invisible zipper installations on the Star Trek: DS9/NEM and Voyager-era jumpsuits.)
Sew the trousers front assembly to the trousers back along the sides, ending the stitching at the pocket opening. This will need to be done in two operations: one from the trousers top to the top of the pocket opening, and one from the trousers bottom to the bottom of the pocket opening.
If you're making plaid trousers, every effort should be made to properly align the horizontal plaid patterns at the side seam.
The upper half (or so) of the trousers front and back have slightly different seam lines, so it may (or may not) be possible to align the vertical plaid lines at the side seam as well. Nevertheless, the effort should be made!
If the plaid pattern is large, it should be possible to at least align the vertical plaid patterns on the lower half to two-thirds of the trousers:
However, if the plaid pattern is small, it may not be possible (or it may be prohibitively difficult) to align the vertical plaid patterns at the side seam:
This depends on largely on how well the trousers were cut and the size of the plaid patterns.
Again, every effort should be made in this regard!
Press the side seam allowances open as far as possible toward the pocket opening. (This includes the trousers' back seam allowance along the pocket opening - press it under ⅝".)
TIP: The hip-area of the trousers is rather curved, so press over a tailor's ham!
Note that it will not be possible to press the side seam allowances open all the way up or down to the actual pocket opening; just get as close as you can.
Here's where it starts to get weird!
Fold the bottom of the pocket upward so the side seam line is clearly visible.
Finish pressing the side seam allowances open, then press the side-most ⅝" of the pocket under as well.
Fold the lower pocket back down.
Pull the pocket toward the back so the front's side seam allowance is clearly visible. 
Using your zipper/piping foot, sew the pocketing to the back's side seam allowance close to the previous stitch line, leaving the bottommost ⅝" free.
(Note that due to the understitching and topstitching, it will not be possible to stitch all the way to the corner of the pocket opening. Just tug it out as far as it will go and sew as close to the side seam line as you can. It'll be fine!)
Cut out as much bulk as possible beneath the pocket opening. (We like to cut just inside of the two stitch lines.)
Fold the pocket toward the front again and press.
Repeat for the top of the pocket.
Position the second side pocket facing over the pocket opening with the unfolded edge flush with the edge of the back's side seam allowance, right side down (so the folded edges are facing upward).
If you're making plaid trousers, the second facing should be positioned such that the plaid pattern aligns properly at the pocket opening/seam line (which may not necessarily be at the edge of the back's side seam allowance).
Fold the pocket in half so the un-sewn edge is flush with the edge of the back's seam allowance to determine the proper position for the second facing.
Pin the facing into place on the pocketing, unfold the pocketing, and topstitch the second facing onto the pocketing around the entirety of its perimeter.
TIP: Use pocketing-colored bobbin thread to avoid any unsightly stitching on the interior of your trousers.
Fold the pocket in half again so the un-sewn edge of the pocket is flush with the edge of the back's side seam allowance and press a crease into the pocket front.
Sew the pocket closed along the bottom edge, from the front fold to the side seam line.
Serge the lower and side edges of the pocket.
Using a zipper/piping foot, sew the back of the pocket closed by sewing the pocket to the back's side seam allowance close to the previous stitch line, from the top of the trousers to where the bottom stitch line ended at the side seam.
At this point, the top edge of your pocket pouch may no longer be flush with the top of the front trousers; if this is the case, simply trim it down to size.
You may also wish to serge the top of the pocket pouch to prevent fraying during the remainder of the construction process.
Unless you plan on "period-tailoring" your trousers, sew or baste the pocket pouch to the trousers ½" from the top edges.
OPTIONAL: On the right side of the trousers, sew a small bar tack at the top and bottom of the pocket opening.
Your finished pocket should look something like this:
If you're making plaid trousers, the (horizontal) plaid pattern should flow continuously across the pocket opening.
And better still, the (horizontal) plaid pattern should flow continuously onto and off of the side pocket facings!
Repeat for the other side.
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