While we graded our trousers pattern according to average proportionate men's measurements, some additional altering and/or fitting may be necessary for some costumers due to variations in height, weight, build, musculature, and general physique.
That's why we highly recommend making a muslin test or a "practice" garment of some kind (other than to familiarize yourself with its construction, that is!) - you can make the necessary sizing observations (e.g. the waist needs to be taken in, the hips need to be let out, the pant legs need to be extended, etc.).
Fitting does require extra time and effort on the part of the costumer, but the finished garment's custom-tailored look will definitely be worth it!
Entire books have been written on the subject of fitting and altering garments (even just trousers/pants - seriously, see our "Recommended Reading" list!), so we'll just cover the most basic and common fitting issues here.
There are three main aspects of the garment that may need adjustment and/or the original pattern need be altered: the waist, hips, and length.
Most of the sizes included with our trousers pattern have the waist and hip measurements graded in 2" increments, which should comfortably accommodate most peoples' physiques, but it's possible that either or both measurements fall between two of our pattern sizes.
To adjust the waist and hips, simply add or subtract ¼ of the total necessary adjustment to each front and back along the side edges.
For instance, I (Alex) have a 37" waist and 42" hips, which is very close to the trousers' pattern size 36.
So, in my case, I used the size 36 to make my trousers and shifted the front and back side edges outward ¼" at the waist (that's a total of ½" adjustment on each side, and a total adjustment of 1"), gradually tapering into the original seam line.
The opposite would be the case for taking the waist in to reduce the size.
Adjusting for the hips is a similar process; simply add or subtract ¼ of the total necessary adjustment to the front and back side edges, tapering downward from the waist on the upper trousers, across the upper/middle trousers joining line, and back into the original side edge on the middle trousers.
TIP: When redrawing the side edges of the pattern, a "hip curve" ruler is extremely helpful!
Remember that if you adjust the waist and/or hips of your trousers, you'll need to do the same for your waistband facings, "curtains," slant pockets, and slant pocket facings.
The trousers can be lengthened and shortened as needed at two places to achieve an ideal fit.
As mentioned in our "How to Use Our Pattern" section, the joining lines for the upper/middle and middle/lower trousers also function as lengthen/shorten lines!
At whichever portion(s) of the body need to be lengthened, simply insert a small piece of paper underneath the two pieces, tape the three together*, and, making sure the upper and lower portions are properly aligned (i.e. not straight and not crooked/slanted/etc.), use a ruler as a guide and draw a line on each side to connect them. Cut along these lines to form your new, extended pattern piece.
* You may want to only tape an extension to the middle trousers pieces so the upper and lower pieces will remain easily interchangeable!
Again using myself (Alex) as an example, I have a taller-than-average pelvis/longer-than-average waist, so I need to lengthen the upper portion of the trousers by 1 ½" so they doesn't ride up in the crotch uncomfortably in the front and give me a wedgie in the back (TMI?).
To shorten the garment, simply fold the pattern paper under as needed at the lengthen/shorten lines and straighten the edges, or overlap the upper and lower portions as needed, straightening the edges.
To shorten the garment, simply fold the pattern paper under as needed at the lengthen/shorten lines and straighten the edges, or overlap the upper and lower portions as needed, straightening the edges.
You may find that if you lengthen or shorten the trousers at one of the fitting lines, you may need to compensate by adjusting the other ones as well. (For instance, as I mentioned, I need to lengthen the upper trousers by 1 ½ " so they extend all the way up to my natural waist, but this makes my trousers too long, so I need to shorten them by 1" along the lower fitting lines.)
Obviously, the same adjustment needs to be made to both the front and back of the trousers for everything to go together properly.
Remember, if you lengthen or shorten your upper trousers, you'll need to do the same for the left and right flies.
CONGRATULATIONS!
YOU'RE FINISHED!
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