Tutorial, part 12 - Hem and Cuffs

For a "regular"/flat hem, simply turn the bottom 2" of your trousers upward, press, and blind-hem.

TIP: If you're making plaid trousers, hem the trousers so the bottom of the trousers is on a significant horizontal line of the plaid pattern. (This would have been taken into account during the cutting, but hem allowances can obviously be altered with minimal effort.) 

Repeat for the other side.

A curved hem is basically the same as a "regular"/flat hem, but you'll need to do some pressing to make the process easier and the trousers' legs drape better. 

Stretch out the hem allowance at the lower front (using lots of steam, if your fabric takes steam well). 

Shrink the hem allowance at the lower back (again, using lots of steam, if your fabric takes steam well.)

NOTE: Due to the necessary ironwork, we recommend only attempting the curved hem with natural-fiber fabrics like cotton and wool, not for synthetic fabrics such as polyester (which does not conform well to steam). It can be made to work, of course, but it's much easier with fabrics that steam well!

Turn the bottom 2" of your trousers upward, press, and blind-hem.

After hemming, press the bottom of your trousers with plenty of steam to ensure a smooth hem.

Repeat for the other side. 

To make the cuffs, first, using tailor's chalk or a disappearing ink fabric marker, draw a horizontal line ¾" form the trousers bottom, another 1 ½" above that line, and another 1 ½" above that one. 

TIP: Draw these lines on both sides of your fabric for ease of reference while constructing the cuff. 

TIP: Rather than drawing on your fabric, simply baste the appropriate lines by hand with basting thread so they're both clearly visible on each side throughout the construction process and easily removable! 

From the right side, press the bottom of the leg upward on the highest line you drew/basted. 

Next, fold the cuff back downward on the second highest/middle line and press. 

The lower/final line you drew should now be even with the bottom of the trousers. 

Tailor-baste the cuff into place. 

Press the bottom ¾" hem allowance to the underside of the trousers. 

From the wrong side, hand-sew the ¾" hem allowance to the underside of the cuff, catching only the trousers and the underside of the cuff in your stitching (so the stitching does not show through on the outside of the cuff). 

Your finished cuff should look like this:

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